冬こそ温かいキモノ!そう、きもの着ましょう!       さらに衿にマフラー、手首には手袋、やっぱり機能性ももひき&タビは欠かせませんね。

How to put on “nagajuban” : one piece

GO to ENGLISH TOP

“Nagajuban” is an under garment. It has two types, a one-piece and two-piece one.

The one piece “nagajuban” is like a long dress or robe.

The two piece “nagajuban” consists of two parts, a top and bottom. 

Please look at  the photo below.

The left is a one piece garment. The center is a two piece garment called “nibushiki nagajuban”. The right is a one piece garment with long sleeves. That’s for “furisode”. Basically, you put on them in a same way. However there are some small differences according to the age, where you go, when you wear, kinds of “kimono” you wear and so on.

But don’t worry! The knowledge will follow you. Just try it!

Let’s start!

 

juban 3種

 

maikichi

Did you sew “haneri” on the collar and put “erishin” there? If you haven’t done it yet, do it now. The reference is “How to sew “haneri”.

Learning targets

  • How to close the collar properly
  • How to use “munahimo” effectively

If you wear “Nagajuban” properly, you’ ll be able to wear kimono properly and comfortably.

 

Wear a one piece “nagajuban”

Align “se-chushin” and make “emon” space

maikichi
Stand straight and look ahead. Keep the posture as possible as you can.

 

1.Put “nagajuban” on. Put the collar ends together at the center front.

 

2.Pinch the collar and the back seam, move the hands back and forth to align the back seam with the center back.

 

3.Pull the center seam and make some space at the nape. 

 

maikichi
That’s “emon wo akeru” in Japanese. One of the attractive points of kimono”.

Suitable “emon” space

 This is the “emon” space for private events. Put the fist vertically.
This is the “emon” space for formal events. Put the fist horizontally. It is the same for “furisode”, the most formal kimono worn by unmarried women.

 

maikichi
If you want a wide space for “emon”, firstly you take more space than you want.

 

Close the collar

襦袢の衿合わせ/close the collar

4.Place the right collar like wrapping the bust.

 

 

襦袢の衿合わせ/close the collar

5.Place the the left collar like wrapping the bust.

 

maikichi
Wrapping your bust is very important. If you do so, the bust will be a stopper not to loosen or narrow the collar.

 

 

Put the collar in place

基本の衿合わせ1Younger women cross the collar on the notch just above the breastbone. You do the same when you wear “nagajuban” for “furisode”. 

基本の衿合わせ2Older women cross the collar below the notch just above the breastbone.

 

 

衿合わせを確認/make sure the collar

6.Do you have an isosceles triangle on the chest? It is important to be symmetrical when wearing kimono.

 

maikichi
For those with long bob hairstyles, those with short necks, and plump ones, there is a good idea to flatten the collar. The visible part of the neck will increase and your neck line will look sharp. Please look at the following.

 

Tilt the collar

立った衿 /standing collar① Everyone will experience standing collar and  narrowing “Emon”.  Hold the collar and lift it from the underbust position. Do this with both hands at the same time.
衿を持ち上げて横に流す/lift the collar and pull aside② The collar opened. Gently pull the collar aside a little.
手を下げる/slid the hands down③ Slide the hands sideways. 
胸元押さえる/hold the under bust④ Hold the under bust with either hand. Pinch the back center with the other hand.

背中心を引く/pull the back center⑤ Pull down the back center. So the collar comes along the neck. The “emon” will widen. In summer, leave a little more space between the neck and the collar. Next tie “munahimo”.

 

 

Tie “munahimo” 

7.While holding the tip of the left collar with the right hand, take the center of “munahimo” with the left hand and pass it to the right hand.

 

 

8.Slide the left hand to the side along the under bust and cross the “munahimo” at the back. Don’t move the right hand.

 

 

9.Bring the ends to the front and twist one end around the “munahimo” twice.

 

 

10.Rotate the ends. 

 

 

11.Tuck them in and put the wrinkles aside by sliding fingers.

 

 

12. Do the same thing to the back.

 

13.If your bodice is wider than you, tuck the extra fabric of the back bodice inside the front one, and carefully pull the front one to remove wrinkles. Do it to the both sides at the same time.

 

 

14.If the “emon” space is narrow, hold the waist line with both hands and pull them down at the same time.

 

 

Tie “munahimo” with “emon-nuki”

1.Pass “munahimo” short to the right and long to the left through the hole. If you have 2 holes, basically choose the upper one.

 

 

2.After aligning the back center and closing the collar, bring the right “himo” to the front while holding the collar.

 

 

3.While holding the collar and the right “himo”, bring the left “himo” to the front and hold the right with the left.

 

 

4.Make the left “himo” go around once and bring it to the front.

 

 

5.Twist the end twice around the other end,. cross and tuck them in the front part. When slippery, tie a half bowknot.

If the above way is difficult, it is OK with the one below.

This is one of the dressing techniques.

 

If you have “emon-nuki”…

胸紐使用での衣紋抜きの処理If you have “emon-nuki”, a strip supporting to make  “emon” space, pull down the “emon-nuki” and twist it around the “munahimo” once. 

 

 

Wrap “datejime” belt

15.Place the center of “datejime” belt on the center front and slide it down to the under bust.

maikichi
Sliding “datejime” prevents from the collar puffing up.

 

16.Cross the belt at the back and pull either end down. 

 

 

17.Fold the pulled down end up.

 

 

18.Bring the ends to the front and tighten the belt once.

 

maikichi
Hold the breath and tighten the belt. That may be good for you.

 

19.Twist one end around the other end twice, while holding the crossed point firmly not to get loose the belt.

 

 

20.Tighten it, but not too tight.

maikichi
Hold the breath and tighten the belt. That may be good for you.

 

21.Cross the ends so as to make the knot flat. 

 

 

22.Tuck the ends in one by one while holding the knot with fingers. Be sure not to loosen the knot or the belt.

 

 

23.Put the wrinkles aside by sliding fingers.

 

24.Also tuck the extra fabric of the back bodice into the front bodice to remove wrinkles.

 

 

25.OK, finished!

 

振袖長襦袢着上がり

26.When you wear “nagajuban” for “furisode”, do the same thing.

 

maikichi
“Nagajuban” is the most important foundation. Wearing well or badly decides your kimono appearance.  So please take much time to put on “nagajuban” firstly.

 

NEXT

GO to ENGLISH TOP Kimono needs many accessories because it doesn't have any zippers and buttons. "Oshare kimono" are c[…]

How to put on kimono part 1

JAPANESE

長襦袢には2種類あります。一部式と二部式です。 一部式、またはワンピースと言いますね。 二部式、またはツーピース。半襦袢と裾よけの様に上下に分かれたものです。 それぞれの特徴は「長襦袢、一部式と二部式どっちが良い?」をご覧[…]

襦袢の着付け/put juban on

GO to ENGLISH TOP